FAQs & Help Centre

Yes, there is a difference. Stains are made of coloured pigments that stick in the grain and pores of the wood surface while dyes consist of microscopic particles that penetrate the wood itself.  As a result, dyes and stains produce different effects and affect different wood species in different ways. 

It depends on which wood dye you are using. The coverage for each wood dye is: 

Traditional Wood Colours - 10-12m² per litre (interior & exterior versions)

Pastel Colours - 10-12m² per litre (interior & exterior versions)

Shades of Grey - 8-10m² per litre

Driftwood Collection - 8-10m² per litre

Woodland Colours - 8-10m² per litre


This coverage is based on one liberal coat. We recommend applying the dye quite liberally with a good quality brush along the grain. However, certain colours will require a light second coat to deepen the shade.

We always recommend producing a test piece first so you can ensure that you get the result that you'd like to achieve.

Yes, as our dyes are water based they can be watered down, up to 50%. We recommend starting with 10% first and gradually increasing, if needed. 

Always produce a test piece first so you ensure you get the finish that you want to achieve. 

Yes, our dye is non-toxic and child safe when dry.

Yes, our dye is non-toxic and pet safe when dry.

No, it is not necessary to apply anything to the wood prior to dyeing. Please make sure that the wood is in its raw sanded state - as our wood dyes are formulated to penetrate the wood. 

The best type of filler to use is just ordinary white powder interior 'Polyfilla'. The stuff that you mix with a little water. Please avoid using any solvent based or ready mixed fillers as wood dyes will not penetrate this type of filler and the liquid from the filler will often affect the surrounding wood.

The dye will be touch dry in 30 minutes but we recommend waiting 2-3 hours between coats.

The wood dye should be dry in 2-3 hours, any end grain will take a little longer.  

It'll be really obvious when it's dry as it will appear very dull. but, the colour will 'come to life' when it's waxed, oiled or varnished. 

The dye will last for a long time if the bottle is tightly sealed, and it is stored in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Thorough mixing is required before re-use.  

Our dye is better applied with a good quality brush. The final appearance depends on a combination of factors :- starting with the natural grain of the wood and how you might wish to sand it first (roughly sanded for a more rustic look) - Then, wax, oil or varnish will each create their own effect.

More often than not, veneer has a lacquered or oiled finish which would need to be sanded back as our wood dye is water based and designed to penetrate bare, sanded wood.

Older veneer that needs re-staining tends to include a finish that would need sanding.

However, you can buy engineered oak laminate flooring with no finish, which our dye could be applied to before sealing with a varnish, wax or oil. Most veneer is deep enough for the dye to penetrate - about 3mm is a good standard depth.

Yes, it can. The spray gun will need cleaning straight away after each use and thoroughly flushed with cold water.

Previous coloured coatings would need to be removed before using a water based penetrating wood dye. Our wood dye is designed to penetrate wood in its bare, raw or sanded state, however, our wood dyes can be applied over our other shades to create a layered effect or change the shade prior to final finishing with wax polish, oil or varnish.  

The water based wood dye is formulated to penetrate and add colour to new or old wood in its raw sanded state. It can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish. Unfortunately, it isn't intended to be a repair kit as such.

There is no need to rub down with wire wool in between coats. If the wood has been thoroughly prepared before applying the wood dye there should be no need to sand further between coats.

Water based wood dyes do have a tendency to raise the grain. However, this is easily overcome as the grain is only raised once. Prior to application, dampen the wood with a sponge or cloth - once dried, sand the raised grain lightly. The wood will then remain smooth when the dye is applied.

Yes, our wood dyes are suitable for a kitchen worktop. They are intended to penetrate the wood in its raw sanded state and can be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish. We would recommend our Worktop Oil or Titan Topcoat.

Please see our extensive Flooring range for suitable products for stair treads and floors.

No. The dye is water based and designed to penetrate bare, sanded wood. It would just run off the laminate.

We would sand most softwood firstly with a 60 grit, and then 120 grit, then raise the grain by wiping over with a damp cloth, allow to dry and then use 120 grit again, making the wood very receptive to the dye.

The wood dyes have a matt appearance.

We would recommend trying our 15ml Tester Pots on an inconspicuous area of your wood, if possible.  For example, the inside of a chair leg or the underneath of a table. You can then wipe it over with a damp cloth when dry to simulate how it would look with a finish on it. However, if you do not have an inconspicuous area to test the dye, you can sand the test area to remove the dye afterwards, or cover it with another wood dye.

Our darker colours, such as English and French Oak are quite dark and will help overcome the background of the mahogany with further coats. 

We recommend allowing the dye to dry for 2-3 hours before applying wax, varnish or oil.

Yes, we have 15ml Tester Pots available in all our wood dyes. 

Our tester pots are 15ml and are designed for you to test the colour if you’re struggling with which one to purchase, as this 15ml of dye can help with your decision. 

For further information our wood dye coverage is approximately 12 square metres per litre (one liberal coat).

As our dyes are designed to penetrate the wood, the dyes should last a good few years, if the wood is exterior, then it will become weathered and worn over time. By finishing the dyes with either wax, varnish or oil then this will provide the product with extra protection.

Our Antique Stripped Pine is recommended to be applied on pine so that the ‘orange’ look is not as noticeable. If wanting to apply a finishing product onto bare pine then Worktop Oil is recommended as it doesn’t contain linseed. It will leave a clean and bright appearance. If you are wanting a natural finish, you can use our Extra Strong Matt Varnish, this can also be diluted.

Yes, probably a good idea if it’s a larger surface, but plywood usually dyes evenly with the darker colours. The conditioner will create a slightly lighter effect which can be deepened with a further coat or coats.

Our wood dye is formulated to penetrate bare sanded back / raw wood. Therefore, any product such as an oil, wax or varnish must be sanded off the wood.

Yes, our dyes can be used on MDF wood. Please remove any previous finishes as our dyes are designed to penetrate wood bare sanded back / raw wood.

No, you do not need to water down the wood dyes. But, if you want to water them down to create a lighter, washed effect then you can do. Please only water the dyes down up to 50% and start with 10% first and gradually increase, if needed. 

Always produce a tester piece first so you ensure you get the finish that you want to achieve. 

It probably needs further thin coats of oil and longer to cure. Try wiping down with white spirit first.

Paper cord is usually a bit waxy to help keep it clean, so it probably won’t absorb a dye evenly.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

The dyes require finishing with wax polish, oil or varnish to seal in the dye, particularly on hardwood.

Yes, it’s not intended to be very black and will dry with a hint of brown. All our dyes can be mixed to create subtle changes.

Very Red Mahogany, Dark Red Mahogany, Brown Mahogany, French Oak and Light 

Rosewood.

There are no blue ingredients in the grey products, however sometimes any underlying redness within the wood can cause the dye to appear slightly blue when dry. This is usually overcome with a further coat.  

Driftwood Brown is a semi opaque product intended to create a more rustic appearance on pine. It’s a sort of medium greyish brown and often looks lighter when varnished.

All of the collections that fall within our Water Based Exterior Wood Dye section on our website can all be used outdoors. 

Our Universal Wood Dyes (Shades of Grey and Driftwood Collection) and Exterior Dyes can all be applied outside. They are protective and allow the wood to breathe. However, we would recommend our Decking Oil Plus for horizontal surfaces such as furniture or decking as an extra layer against wear and tear.

All our collections of Exterior and Universal wood dyes can be used on any outdoor wood such as furniture, decking, garden buildings and fences, providing they havent already been treated with an oil based product.

For outside projects our Exterior and Universal dyes are waterproof on their own – However we would recommend finishing with our Decking Oil Plus for further protection outside. In addition, if you want to finish a inside project, for example, in your bathroom; we recommend our Danish Oil, Worktop Oil or Titan Topcoat for a waterproof finish.

Yes, however, only our Exterior Wood Dyes can be applied to tanalised / pressure treated wood. These are our Woodland Colours, Driftwood Collection, Shades of Grey, Exterior Pastel Colours and Exterior Traditional Wood Colours. 

Driftwood is a more opaque product intended to coat the surface more so than the totally penetrating wood dyes, including the Light Oak. If you are using an alternative branded wax that contains Toluene, this may be the problem as it’s a far stronger solvent than it needs to be. Our wax has a weaker solvent and appears to be fine on the greys.

There are no blue ingredients in the grey products, however sometimes any underlying orange or redness within the wood can cause the dye to appear slightly blue when dry. This can often be overcome by a light second coat, but it will create a more opaque appearance.  

This may be due to an un-mixed white ingredient which has settled at the bottom of the bottle. It is important that you shake the bottle well and rigorously, prior to use and during use, as well as stirreding the dye throughout application, please always follow the mixing tips and instructions (it needs to be in a constant state of suspension).

The more detailed or ‘grainy’ the surface is the greater the effect. It will produce a more uniform grey/brown on hardwood or pressure treated (tanalised) wood. If you intend to apply the dye to hardwood; try diluting it with cold water (up to 50%). This should create a more transparent wash of grey/brown, allowing more of the natural wood colour and texture to show through.

If the wood has a natural orange or reddish background colour this may possibly cause any of our grey dyes to look more slightly blue. This can often be overcome by further coats. We always recommend producing a tester piece first to ensure you get the finish that you want to achieve.

The full strength of our Driftwood doesn’t work well on beech. However, you could experiment by diluting it with cold water to create a more transparent effect rather than a more solid, uniform grey. We’d recommend starting with 10% first and increase this up to 50%, if needed. This product works best on grainy, detailed wood, in particular- pine. We recommend producing a tester piece first to ensure you get the finish that you want to achieve. 

Please read our blog 'All About Driftwood Grey' for further information. The blog words relate to both Driftwood Grey and Driftwood Brown. 

A brush is better for pushing both the dye and oil along the decking grooves and getting it into corners and details. A liberal coat of oil should be applied initially, which will take a while to soak into the Driftwood. Wipe off any excess the following day. 1 or 2 coats should be sufficient, but further light coats can be applied annually after gentle cleaning. Best to wash down with a soft broom when required rather than using a pressure washer.  

Yes, our Driftwood Grey can be used both indoors and outdoors. 

Yes, the varnish is a Polyurethane Acrylic dispersion.

The varnish is highly resistant to water providing the moisture doesn't get underneath, usually within the joints if the floor is tongue and groove. Also do not allow standing water or liquids on the varnish for prolonged periods.

We recommend three coats for a good finish. With a pre-coat of varnish watered down by 20%.

The varnish will be touch dry after 20 minutes but you should wait 2-3 hours between coats depending on conditions. On a floor, for example, we recommend coating it with three coats in one day, following staining with our water based dye.

The coverage is approximately 10-12 square metres per litre.

No, we'd recommend using our Worktop Oil instead of varnish on a worktop. Whilst waterproof, the varnish isn't designed to have water sitting on it for long periods, which would happen after each wipe down of the worktop. Or alternatively you can use our Titan Topcoat.

Yes, this varnish has been used for this purpose by a few of our customers.

Yes, we would recommend adding a little cold water into the spray gun for the first coat, up to 20%. The spray gun will need cleaning straight away after each use and thoroughly flushed with cold water.

No, our varnish is water based and doesn't contain the natural resins which cause the yellowing in solvent based varnishes. One major advantage of water based varnishes such as ours is the non-yellowing factor.

No, this varnish can also be applied to solvent based stains and paints once fully dried and cured. However, please perform a test piece first to assess compatibility.

Yes, once fully dried. However, please perform a test piece first to assess compatibility.

This is a water based varnish so it is thin, but offers excellent protection and is easy to apply.

This varnish is a sealant, designed to finish the wood dye.

Yes.

Yes, once dry, the varnish is safe on toys.

This water based varnish is designed for internal use only. Please look at our Titan Topcoat as an alternative.

Yes, the varnish is ideal for that.

Go gently with a good brush for the first coat which you can dilute with approximately 20% water.

This coat will seal everything up and make subsequent coats very easy to apply.

After 2-3 full coats lightly sand if necessary with 240 grit or smoother.

The black ‘wet n’ dry’ abrasive works best.

A final coat after sanding will create a great finish.

No our Extra Strong Varnish is not recommended for metal, as it is water based it will just run off the metal.

Yes, matt can be applied over the gloss.

Whilst the varnish itself has a very low odour and it will 'seal' the wood, we can't guarantee that any strong smells coming from the wood itself will be masked.

Our Extra Strong Matt Varnish would certainly protect the wallpaper. However, it would create a slight sheen which may not be desirable, it’s advisable to do a test piece where possible to ensure you like the outcome.

Our varnish is heat resistant, however, we would recommend our Titan Topcoat to withstand heat better. We would recommend 3 coats of our Titan Topcoat for a hard wearing finish that is also waterproof and heatproof.

The spray gun would need cleaning straight away after use and thoroughly flushed with cold water.

Varnishes will always change the final appearance of a colour to some extent  – however our matt varnishes will have a lesser effect on the colour.

Yes, we have our Titan Topcoat. Our Titan Topcoat has a clear matt, satin or gloss finish and is a multipurpose, tough but flexible waterproof coating. It is a water based varnish for indoor and outdoor use. If you'd like to read more about Titan Topcoat you can do so here.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

Dilute the first coat of varnish with about 20% cold water as a base coat. Then build up the varnish over the dye, say two coats. Before what you think will be the final coat, lightly sand with 240 grit ‘wet n’ dry’ type of abrasive, which works well, the 240 grit before the final coat is just a case of gliding over to remove any roughness before the final coat.  

We do have a number of customers that spray our varnish. Generally, I believe they use a medium nozzle from around 6-8 inches. The varnish can be diluted with 20% cold water to slow it down. Shouldn’t need to be filtered, but probably a good idea if the container has been opened earlier.

Yes the varnish can be applied with a small foam roller or a good quality brush. You could dilute the varnish etc. I often dilute the first brush coat to create a thinner base coat (by watering down by 20%). Then when applying the first full coat it’s easier to spread, dries a little slower and goes further.

Yes, the polish can be used directly onto raw wood or as a maintenance product for finished items. We prefer to add a depth of background colour to the wood first with one of our wood dyes.

Yes, the wax can be applied to a previously waxed surface. It might be a good idea to gently sand/clean the surface with white spirit first.

Yes, it is advisable to buff the wax between coats. The wax can be applied with a good quality brush and cotton cloth. The brush helps to push the wax into any corners or detailed aspects, the cotton cloth can be used to flatten down the wax to avoid any dry streaks or brush marks. A clean cotton cloth can be used to buff the wax in between coats and buffing the final coat. It usually takes three applications to create an even sheen. A shoe brush can also be useful for buffing flat surfaces along the grain of the wood.

Any spillages must be cleaned as soon as possible with a cool, damp cloth. Do not use any products with chemicals in. You can also wipe with a small amount of white spirit (to soften the wax), then wipe over with a clean cloth and then this can be re-waxed or buffed.

The approx. coverage of our wax polish is 10m² per litre, for one liberal coat.

This product would be perfect for spindles and bannisters, but we would not recommend for the stair treads. Please use our Floor Fast Varnish instead.

You could use some white spirit to clean the brush after use.

The wax has been applied a little too thick. I would wipe it back a little with white spirit, then buff it with a cotton cloth and a good quality shoe brush along the grain.

Yes, 6 months sounds about right, and the previous coat can be buffed as required in between.

Both really, but the aim was for them to enhance the wood dyes. Antique Brown is the darkest one and will add more colour to bare wood, the others are intentionally lighter so as not to darken the dyes too much.

Our Wax Polish is suitable for furniture such as: doors, tables, bed headboards, if you want a soft finish. Our wax is also recommended for bannisters; and if there is a large amount of spindles (recommended 2 coats). You can also buff the bannister with a shoe brush buffer. 

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

Yes, this will be ok and can be maintained with the wax occasionally.

We wouldn’t recommend our wax polish for use on worktops as it's not robust enough.

The coverage of our Worktop Oil is 12m² per litre, this is based on one liberal coat.

Yes, you will need to add more coats over time as the board is continually washed.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

No.

Our Worktop Oil is food safe and should be applied thinly and built up with several coats. To clean, use warm water, a little washing up liquid and a cloth, avoiding abrasive or chemical cleaning products. A previously oiled surface could be cleaned with White Spirit before further oiling.

If maintaining a previously oiled worktop, best practise would be to sand back very lightly, remove dust and clean with white spirit, before reapplying a thin coat of oil.

Yes, this can be used over any of our Exterior or Universal wood dyes on outdoor projects.

Yes, you can either use our Decking Oil Plus or Danish Oil. Both of these oils can be used outdoors and provide a non-toxic finish once dry.

Our Decking Oil Plus will dry clear and matt.

It is ok to apply our Decking Oil Plus on the majority of woods. However, it is not recommended to apply this oil to high tannin hardwoods

This isn't the Decking Oil Plus that has caused the bubbling effect on your wood. This is just the resin that is in the wood. Whilst this is extremely rare, it can be rectified by scraping the oil when hardened and cleaning off using white spirit.  Once dry you can reapply a further oil.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

Yes, this oil is a blend of tung and linseed oil.

No, there isn't an added UV protection within the oil itself, but it does has a natural light reflective quality to it. An alternative may be the Superior Decking Oil which does contain a UV protection.

Initially the Danish Oil will dry clear, however, as it contains linseed it can turn a little orange over time. The orange tint is mild at first and goes more 'orange' naturally over time. This would be more noticeable on a lighter background, including the pastels and greys as well as pine wood. Whilst, this isn't a major issue, it is something to be aware of.  

Also, the orange tint would have the same effect on the variety of woods as it is the oil that has the orange tint. However, the end result will be different as this is always a combination of the type of wood, dye, and finish product used. all of the products that have been used.

White spirit.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

As it is oiled already it would need to be a solvent-based product. It could be wax polished so that any marks or scratches could be buffed out with a little more wax.

The coverage of our Danish Oil is 12m² per litre, this is based on one liberal coat.

Yes, when dry our Danish Oil is food safe.

Yes, when dry our Danish Oil is toy safe.

Titan Topcoat is a water based varnish that can be used both indoors and outdoors. It has a clear matt, satin or gloss finish and is quick drying, non-yellowing and waterproof. 

It can be applied to most types of wood and sheet materials, such as plywood and MDF. In addition to this, Titan Topcoat will bond to many other surfaces including masonry, concrete, terracotta, metal and laminates. 

If you're looking for a hard wearing finish that needs to be waterproofed and hygienic such as bathroom and kitchen floors, cafes and bars, laminate floors and outdoor furniture, then we'd 100% recommend our Titan Topcoat, to provide the hard wearing finish that you require. 

Titan Topcoat will be touch dry in around 30 minutes and can be re-coated after 2-3 hours in suitable conditions.

The coverage is approximately 12 square metres per litre, for one coat.

Yes, Titan Topcoat has effective UV protection against solar radiation.

Titan Topcoat does not contain any biocidal ingredients. Whilst biocides are useful for controlling harmful microorganisms, they can also be toxic to humans, animals and plants.

Yes.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

Yes, our Floor Fast Varnish would be suitable for stair treads.

Yes, as long as there is no existing varnish, oil or wax on there. The varnish is designed to be applied over our water based floor dye, or can be applied directly to the bare pine.

You can use the pre-conditioner with many of our wood dyes, however Our Pre-Conditioner is not recommended for use with our African Ebony, Seawashed White or Driftwood Grey or Driftwood Brown.

Our Pre-Conditioner can be applied with a good quality brush, applicator pad, roller or spray.

While we are certain that no animals have been harmed or used in our manufacturing process, we cannot guarantee the same for the suppliers of our raw materials.   Without specific testing to confirm any full negative trace, we can’t warrant documentation to have a vegan friendly status.

When applying wood dye to particularly softwoods such as pine, or light coloured hardwoods it can sometimes appear ‘blotchy’ or ‘patchy’. The pre-conditioner will slightly seal the wood allowing the dye to penetrate more evenly. It will also improve the clarity of the grain and details in the wood, however it is not essential when a more rustic appearance is desired.

We would recommend using our Danish Oil followed by our Medium Brown Wax.

Our Titan Topcoat is highly stain and heat resistant and can be applied very much in the same way as a varnish. For open fires, multi-fuel burners and other heating appliances please refer to the manufacturer’s instructions regarding safe distances of surrounding items.

Our wood dyes are formulated to penetrate the wood so it is important to completely sand the table back to the raw wood state, to a point where you're creating fine dust. After sanding, please avoid the use of white spirit to clean the table, it is recommended to just vacuum off the dust and wipe it over with a damp cloth.  

If you wish to create an aged appearance for your project then we would recommend using our Antique Stripped Pine or Dark Pine colours, as these will achieve that appearance.   

A good finish for a coffee table after staining is the Superior Worktop Oil. The oil will seal in the colour and is very resistant to spillages. We'd recommend applying several thin coats of oil, as this should be sufficient enough to protect the surface and retain a natural appearance. You could then apply a wax polish over the oil to produce a soft sheen. The table can then be maintained by further wax polishing occasionally.  

The dye works by penetrating the wood when it's in the raw sanded state. If the thresholds are just lacquered and have a natural light oak colour you could just give them a gentle sanding and re-finish with a similar lacquer/varnish.

We'd recommend our Superior Danish Oil as this will penetrate the oak and maintain a natural appearance. You may find that a few light coats of the oil will waterproof it sufficiently. We would recommend to treat all faces and edges with the oil before fixing to prevent moisture from 'sneaking up' on the finish from behind. The oil will also act as a primer for any solvent based topcoat. Please produce a tester piece and see how it looks. 

Yes, we'd recommend our water based wood dye but the wood needs to be in the raw wood state, to allow the dye to penetrate the wood. The dye can then be finished with our Danish Oil, which is non-toxic. The oil will penetrate the boards, lock in the colour and is very water resistant. 

Please allow at least one day before varnishing the floor. We would recommend at least three coats of varnish, with a watered down pre-coat, after using our wood dye. You should be able to achieve this in one day, leaving 2-3 hours between each coat. You will be able to walk on it the same day.

A 250ml would probably be enough liquid for one coat. However, some of our darker colours require a couple of coats so you might be better off with a 500ml.

Yes, the products are safe for pets once dry. Our Exterior and Universal Wood Dyes can be used outside, providing they can penetrate the wood. We recommend protecting the colour with either our Danish Oil, Decking Oil Plus or Titan Topcoat as these can be used on exterior wood. Our Extra Strong Varnishes are for interior use only.

Our wood dyes are formulated to penetrate the wood in its raw sanded state. For use on exterior wood you would need to use our Exterior or Universal Water Based Wood Dyes. We would recommend finishing the dye with either our Danish Oil or Decking Oil Plus, these are both food and toy safe (when dry) and will highly waterproof the wood.

Yes, absolutely.

Our Driftwood Grey or Driftwood Brown would do it. You will get a more uniform colour though, than you would on new pine. 

However, you could consider any of our other colours which are all available as permanent, exterior, penetrating wood dyes. No further finishing for our exterior dyes is necessary, however We do recommend to coat them with our Superior Decking Oil Plus to make them last for decades and provide the dye with further protection.