Help Centre

The water based stain/dye will cover approximately 12 square metres per litre. It should be applied quite liberally with a good quality brush along the grain.

Certain colours will require a light second coat to deepen the shade.

This is a common problem when staining wood.

Any solvent based or ready mixed filler will prevent the stain/dye from penetrating the wood. Not only the hole itself but quite often these types of fillers leave an invisible film on the surface close to the repair. This will create a very unsightly patch for certain.

The best type of filler to use is just ordinary white powder interior 'Polifilla'. The stuff you mix with a little water. It stains well, especially with the black stain.

I would normally not suggest mixing stain with the filler as this could leave a darker patch around the repair when stained. This will be the case with most lighter colours. However, if you intend to make the bed really dark by applying additional coats, I think this would be okay.

The Black Ebony stain is a slightly different formula than the lighter colours, allowing it to easily build up to a dense 'blackness' after adding coats ( two or three may be enough). Our Superior Wood Finishing Oil works well on the black stain, it intensifies the depth of colour, protects the finish and can be wax polished after it's fully dried to create a soft sheen.

The dye/stain will penetrate and add colour to the wood. This would then need finishing with wax, oil or varnish.

You could paint over later if varnished.

You could paint over later with a solvent based paint if oiled.

***You wont be able to paint over a waxed finish without a lot of hard work to remove the wax***

As your doors are dark, you may well need an undercoat for the white satin paint.

The oil will also act as a good primer for solvent based paints.

It's the oil first before waxing for a more waterproof finish. You can put wax on top of the oil once it's dry.

The stain will look lovely with just a wax polish after two or thee coats and buffing.

The wood stain/dye is designed to penetrate the wood. It can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish.

Apply a single coat of Golden Pine with a good brush to sanded wood.

If your item/s are not subject to wear and tear, the clear wax polish works well.

For a more waterproof finish you could use the oil which will brighten the appearance as will the varnish. Both can be waxed when fully dry to create a softer feel.

The water based wood stain/dye will dry in about 30 minutes. Any end grain will take a little longer.

It'll be really obvious when it's dry as it will appear very dull. But, the colour will 'come to life' when it's waxed, oiled or varnished.

We would recommend using our Wood Finishing Oil followed by our Medium Brown Wax.

The stain works perfectly on plywood.

They are designed to penetrate the wood and do need a finishing coat

of wax, oil or varnish.

Our Superior Wood Finishing Oil would be the quickest and easiest.

It's non toxic,dries quickly, brightens the colours nicely. It can be applied

with a brush. It just soaks in so there's no need to mess 

The stain works by penetrating the wood when it's in the raw sanded state.

If the thresholds are just lacquered and have a natural light oak colour you could 

just give them a gentle sanding and re-finish with a similar lacquer/varnish.

No, the stain/dye is intended for indoor use and is designed to penetrate new or old wood in its raw sanded state. The colour becomes part of the wood but isn't completely waterproof. It does fare well outdoors if well oiled but we couldn't recommend it if the furniture stays out in wet weather.

The wood stain/dye is designed to penetrate wood in its raw sanded state. It can the be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish.

The water based wood stain/dye is formulated to penetrate and add colour to new or old wood in its raw sanded state. It can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish. Unfortunately, it isn't intended to be a repair kit as such.

Yes, our products are non-toxic.

The stain is actually better applied with a brush. The final appearance depends on a combination of factors :- starting with the natural grain of the Pine and how you might wish to sand it first (roughly sanded for a more rustic look) - Then, wax, oil or varnish will each create their own effect.

The wood stain / wood dye will last for a long time if it is stored in a cool, dry place.

The water based dye/stain is intended to penetrate the wood in its raw sanded state. It can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish.

There is no need to rub down with wire wool in between coats.

We do recommend using pre-dye conditioner to seal the wood beforehand, although it is not a necessity.  We offer our own pre-dye conditioner which you can find here.

Yes. Any wood finishing product can be applied to the stain / dye.

Yes, the wood stain / dyes are suitable for a kitchen worktop. They are intended to penetrate the wood in its raw sanded state and can be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish. We would recommend our Worktop Oil - see link https://www.littlefairs.shop/products/littlefairs-superior-worktop-oil

Yes, they are safe for pets.

That’s a very good question about the filler. I’ve seen so many unsightly problems caused by the use of so called stainable fillers.

Definitely avoid any ready mixed or solvent based fillers, they will not allow a wood dye to penetrate either the hole and often the surrounding area too.

I often use ordinary interior ‘ polifilla’, the white powder stuff that’s mixed with a little water. Once sanded it’s like ‘chalky’ and accepts wood dye quite well.

I’m not saying it’s perfect but, for nail holes, small cracks and gaps in floorboards, doors, skirts’ and architraves etc, it does create a pleasing, acceptable look.

Our ‘wood dye’ is a penetrating solution intended to add colour to the wood before final finishing with wax polish, oil or varnish. The word ‘woodstain’ is often used to describe a product that actually coats the wood such as a coloured varnish. This type of coating may well cover a filler.

Water based wood dyes do have a tendency to raise the grain. However, this is easily overcome as the grain is only raised once. Prior to application dampen the wood with a sponge or cloth - once dried, sand the raised grain lightly. The wood will then remain smooth when the dye is applied.

The dye will be touch dry in 30 minutes but we recommend waiting 2-3 hours between coats.

Yes. You may need to apply multiple coats.

These wood stains / dyes are intended to penetrate and add colour to the wood in its raw sanded state. They can then be wax polished, oiled or varnished.

We make an Extra Strong Varnish which would be suitable for finishing the stain/dye on your stair treads.

More often that not, veneer has a laquered or oiled finish which would need to be sanded back as our wood dye is water based and designed to penetrate bare, sanded wood.

Older veneer that needs re-staining tends to include a finish that would need sanding.

However, you can buy engineered oak laminate flooring with no finish, which our dye could be applied to before sealing with a varnish, wax or oil.  Most veneer is deep enough for the dye to penetrate - about 3mm is a good standard depth.

No.  The dye is water based and designed to penetrate bare, sanded wood.  It would just run off the laminate. 

Yes, the varnish is an excellent chalk paint sealant and has produced some beautiful results.

Yes, the varnish is a Polyurethane Acrylic dispersion

The varnish is highly resistant to water providing the moisture

doesn't get underneath, usually within the joints if the floor is tongue and groove.

Yes, the varnish will work well over milk paint.

We recommend three coats for a good finish..

The varnish will be touch dry after 20 minutes but you should wait 2-3 hours between coats. On a floor, for example, we recommend coating it with three coats in one day, following staining with our water based dye. 

The coverage is approximately 10-12 square metres per litre.

The varnish should be used at room temperature, or certainly at no less than 10 degrees Celsius.  Our water based varnish relies on the water evaporating which will not happen if it is too cold, leading to cracking in the finish..  

Yes, or a good quality brush.

No, we'd recommend using our Worktop Oil instead of Varnish on a worktop. Whilst water proof, the varnish isn't designed to have water sitting on it for long periods, which would happen after each wipe down of the worktop.

Yes, this varnish has been used for this purpose by a few of our customers.

Yes.

No.  Our varnish is water based and doesn't contain the natural resins which cause the yellowing in solvent based varnishes. One major advantage of water based varnishes such as ours is the non-yellowing factor.

No, this varnish can also be applied to solvent based stains and paints.

Yes, the polish can be used directly onto raw wood or as a maintenance product for finished items. We prefer to add a depth of background colour to the wood first with one of our wood stains.

Yes, the wax can be applied to a previously waxed surface. It might be a good idea to gently sand/clean the surface with white spirit first.

Yes, it is advisable to buff the wax between coats. It usually takes three applications to create an even sheen. A shoe brush is good for buffing.

Yes, it can.

Whilst water repellent, we wouldn't recommend for use outdoors.  Our Danish Oil or Decking Oil Plus would be more suitable.

A 500ml tub will cover around 18 square metres with a thin coat applied.

The oil works well on top of the water based stain/dye and can then be wax polished once the oil is fully dry.

The Superior Wood Finishing Danish Oil would be suitable

for your bathroom and so easy to apply over the stain.

It can be maintained every now and then with a little of the 

oil on a cloth.

When dry, the Danish Oil and Worktop Oil is food and toy safe.

The oils contain less than 0.5% Ethyl Methyl ketoxime which is a biodegradable anti skinning agent.

Yes, we'd recommend the Decking Oil Plus in particular on outdoor furniture.

Yes, the oil will dry clear and matt.

After your first coat, leave it 15-20 minutes before wiping off the excess and then give it a couple of hours until the next coat. You can build up a nice sheen with multiple coats.

The wood stains will penetrate the wood so it is important to completely sand the table

back to the raw wood state, to a point were you're creating fine dust.

Avoid the use of white spirit to clean the table. Just vacuum off the dust and wipe it over

with a damp cloth.

If you wish to create an aged appearance?... The Stripped or Dark Pine colour will achieve

this. A good finish for a coffee table after staining is the Superior Wood Finishing Danish oil.

The oil will seal in the colour and is very resistant to spillages. Two coats of oil should be 

sufficient to protect the surface and retain a natural appearance, You could then apply a wax

polish to produce a soft sheen. The table can then be maintained by further wax polishing

occasionally.

I would order a 500 ml stain to ensure you have enough. The oil and wax is also available 

in 500 ml containers.

10ml samples of the stains are available if you would like to try it first. Perhaps you could 

test the finish on the underside of the bottom shelf. The stains will appear quite dull when

dry - but will show their true colour when oiled, waxed or varnished.

If you would prefer a varnished finish. Any solvent based varnish will be okay.

Our Superior Danish Oil will penetrate the oak and maintain a natural appearance.

You may find that a few light coats will waterproof it sufficiently. I'd be inclined to 

treat all faces and edges with the oil before fixing to prevent moisture from 'sneaking up'

on the finish from behind.

The oil will also act as a primer for any solvent based topcoat. I guess you'll have to test 

a piece and see how it looks.

Yes, we can recommend the water based stain finished with our oil, which is non toxic. The oil will penetrate the boards, lock in the colour and is very water resistant.

You should give it at least one day before varnishing the floor. We would recommend at least three coats of varnish after using our wood stain. You should be able to achieve this in one day, leaving 2-3 hours between coats. You will be able to walk on it the same day.

Yes, the products are safe for pets and the stain/dye can be used outside providing it can penetrate the wood. I would protect the colour with Our Superior Wood Finishing Oil rather than varnish as it is also absorbed into the wood and wont flake or peel over time.

The wood stain/ dyes are a formula that will penetrate the wood in its raw sanded state. They can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish.

They will be suitable for your play equipment and I would be inclined to finish them with our Superior Wood Finishing Oil, which is food and toy safe and will highly waterproof the items.

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We operate a no – quibble returns policy and if you return an item within 90 days of receipt, we’ll give you back the amount you paid for the item or offer an exchange, whichever you prefer, no questions asked.  

Sorry but we are unable to offer free returns, you will be responsible for paying for your own postage costs for returning your item.

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