Any solvent based or ready mixed filler will prevent the stain/dye from penetrating the wood. Not only the hole itself but quite often these types of fillers leave an invisible film on the surface close to the repair. This will create a very unsightly patch for certain.
The best type of filler to use is just ordinary white powder interior 'Polifilla'. The stuff you mix with a little water. It stains well, especially with the black stain.
I would normally not suggest mixing stain with the filler as this could leave a darker patch around the repair when stained. This will be the case with most lighter colours. However, if you intend to make the bed really dark by applying additional coats, I think this would be okay.
The Black Ebony stain is a slightly different formula than the lighter colours, allowing it to easily build up to a dense 'blackness' after adding coats ( two or three may be enough). Our Superior Wood Finishing Oil works well on the black stain, it intensifies the depth of colour, protects the finish and can be wax polished after it's fully dried to create a soft sheen.
No, the stain/dye is intended for indoor use and is designed to penetrate new or old wood in its raw sanded state. The colour becomes part of the wood but isn't completely waterproof. It does fare well outdoors if well oiled but we couldn't recommend it if the furniture stays out in wet weather.
The water based wood stain/dye is formulated to penetrate and add colour to new or old wood in its raw sanded state. It can then be finished with wax polish, oil or varnish. Unfortunately, it isn't intended to be a repair kit as such.
The stain is actually better
applied with a brush. The final appearance depends on a combination of factors
:- starting with the natural grain of the Pine and how you might wish to sand
it first (roughly sanded for a more rustic look) - Then, wax, oil or varnish
will each create their own effect.
That’s a very good question about the filler. I’ve seen so
many unsightly problems caused by the use of so called stainable fillers.
Definitely avoid any ready mixed or solvent based fillers,
they will not allow a wood dye to penetrate either the hole and often the
surrounding area too.
I often use ordinary interior ‘polifilla’, the white powder
stuff that’s mixed with a little water. Once sanded it’s like ‘chalky’ and
accepts wood dye quite well.
I’m not saying it’s perfect but, for nail holes, small
cracks and gaps in floorboards, doors, skirts’ and architraves etc, it does
create a pleasing, acceptable look.
Our ‘wood dye’ is a penetrating solution intended to add
colour to the wood before final finishing with wax polish, oil or varnish. The
word ‘woodstain’ is often used to describe a product that actually coats the
wood such as a coloured varnish. This type of coating may well cover a filler.
Water based wood dyes do have a tendency to raise the grain. However, this is easily overcome as the grain is only raised once. Prior to application dampen the wood with a sponge or cloth - once dried, sand the raised grain lightly. The wood will then remain smooth when the dye is applied.
More often that not, veneer has a laquered or oiled finish which would need to be sanded back as our wood dye is water based and designed to penetrate bare, sanded wood.
Older veneer that needs re-staining tends to include a finish that would need sanding.
However, you can buy engineered oak laminate flooring with no finish, which our dye could be applied to before sealing with a varnish, wax or oil. Most veneer is deep enough for the dye to penetrate - about 3mm is a good standard depth.
The varnish will be touch dry after 20 minutes but you should wait 2-3 hours between coats. On a floor, for example, we recommend coating it with three coats in one day, following staining with our water based dye.
The varnish should be used at room temperature, or certainly at no less than 10 degrees Celsius. Our water based varnish relies on the water evaporating which will not happen if it is too cold, leading to cracking in the finish.
No, we'd recommend using our Worktop Oil instead of Varnish on a worktop. Whilst water proof, the varnish isn't designed to have water sitting on it for long periods, which would happen after each wipe down of the worktop.
No. Our varnish is water based and doesn't contain the natural resins which cause the yellowing in solvent based varnishes. One major advantage of water based varnishes such as ours is the non-yellowing factor.
The water based Extra Strong Matt varnish would
certainly protect the wallpaper. However, it would create a slight sheen which
may not be desirable, it’s advisable to do a test piece where possible to
ensure you like the outcome.
The orange tint of our Danish Oil would have the same effect on the variety of woods as it is the oil that has the orange tint. However, the end result would be different as this is a combination of all of the products that have been used.
The orange tint is mild at first and goes more 'orange' naturally over time. The orange tint is more noticable on pine wood.
Worktops would be more suitable with our Worktop Oil. Oak items would not be suitable for Danish Oil as this type of oil does not soak in as well. Danish Oil is not recommended to be applied on top of a waxed surface.
The oil is waterproof and the more coats of oil that are applied, the more waterproof it is. It is recommended to apply a further coat on a fresh coat, as this helps with the bonding process of the oil penetrating the wood.
You should give it at least one day before varnishing the floor. We would recommend at least three coats of varnish after using our wood stain. You should be able to achieve this in one day, leaving 2-3 hours between coats. You will be able to walk on it the same day.
Yes, the products are safe for pets and the stain/dye can
be used outside providing it can penetrate the wood. I would protect the colour
with Our Superior Wood Finishing Oil rather than varnish as it is also absorbed
into the wood and wont flake or peel over time.
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